Whether you believe in the death of the front derailleur or not, narrow-wide chainrings are one of the most shopped-for aftermarket upgrades. With various colors, tooth counts and designs, riders can customize their drivetrains to suit nearly any preference. SRAM released the first narrow-wide ring back in 2012 when it launched its XX1 drivetrain and set the standard for this style of ring. Since then, other companies have released their own iterations in hopes of improving on an established design.
We tested chainrings from 10 of the most prominent companies on the market on 11-speed SRAM and Shimano drivetrains with KMC X11 chains. Our testing included aggressive cross-country racing, enduro and all-mountain riding. We focused on chain retention, ring stiffness and drivetrain noise. Most of our rings were a 104-BCD pattern, but we did use some direct-mount rings depending on what we could get our hands on.
WHAT MAKES IT NARROW-WIDE?
Just in case you haven’t seen this style of chainring, a narrow-wide model uses alternating tooth sizes to help hold the chain in place. In relation to the front chainring, the chain is pulled back onto the ring by the spring in the rear derailleur and held there by the clutch mechanism. Some companies still recommend running a top guide for extra insurance, but that will depend on rider style and preference. We tested all of our rings without guides.
WOLF TOOTH DROP- STOP RING—104 BCD
Tech info:
The Wolf Tooth Drop-Stop comes in multiple BCD options, but for testing we used a 104-BCD ring that was the first ring Wolf Tooth produced. This ring retails for $64 (other mounting options range in price) and is made in Minneapolis, Minnesota. The Drop Stop will work with 9–11-speed drivetrains.
On the trail:
The Drop-Stop was a staff favorite during our testing. Our testers were surprised at the level of grip it had on the chain. The chain seemed almost glued to the ring at times and provided us with plenty of confidence. The extra retention did cause some noise from the drivetrain but didn’t give us anything to worry about, especially with how stiff the ring was. The Drop-Stop was one of the best rings we tested and delivered solid performance.
SRAM XX1 X-SYNC – 76BCD
Tech info:
SRAM started the game with 1x drivetrains and has created a whole new segment of the bike market with the introduction of narrow-wide rings. The XX1 X-Sync is available in a 76-BCD or direct-mount option for SRAM cranks. Sizes range from 28–38 teeth, and
the rings have a retail price of $90.
On the trail:
If there is one ring that we have countless hours on, it’s this one, considering just how many bikes come stock with SRAM rings. The chain felt secure on the ring and was quiet during our testing. If you’re not looking for extra flair on your rig, this ring is more than adequate to keep you riding confidently.
HOPE RETAINER RING—104BCD
Tech info:
Hope is best known for its handcrafted brakes, and now chainrings, cassette and even wheels. The Retainer ring is CNC-machined from 7075-T6 aluminum and is available in a handful of mounting and color options. This ring is made in the UK and retails for $90. Like some of the other options, the Retainer is compatible with 9–11-speed drivetrains.
On the trail:
Another strong contender in our testing, the Retainer was a staff favorite. The quality of the ring stood out over several others we rode, and the hard-anodized finish seemed to show virtually no wear. This was one of the stiffest rings we tried, and it gave us a quiet drivetrain with no dropped chains.
KORE STRONGHOLD N/W RING—SRAM DIRECT MOUNT
Tech info:
Kore has a solution for almost every application on the bike, and its new Stronghold rings come in seven different colors with plenty of mounting options. The Stronghold uses a hooked- tooth design that balances retention and release through the cycle of the ring and is made from 7075-T6 aluminum. The rings range from $59 to $75 depending on the specifications.
On the trail:
The teeth on the Kore are a little taller than on some of the other rings tested, but the design and application were effective. The taller tooth profile did create a little extra noise during testing, but with the chain properly lubed we didn’t have any serious issues. In the end, the design worked, as our testers didn’t experience any dropped chains and were impressed with the stiffness of the ring.
GAMUT TTR RING—104BCD
Tech info:
Companies based out of Canada have a sense of what will work on rowdy trails, and Gamut is one of those companies. The TTR ring made its appearance in 2014 and is machined out of 7075- T6 aluminum in Canada. Gamut made the TTR with a taller tooth pro- file to increase mud shedding. This hard-anodized ring retails for $50 and is 9–11-speed compatible.
On the trail:
Gamut claims this ring can be run on either side of the spider, and after trying this out we were pleased to see that they were correct. The shifting and chain retention were competitive from either side, although we did notice a little extra stress when mounting on the outside of the spider. Our testers didn’t experience any dropped chains during their testing. Gamut does recommend running a top guide for riders who are looking for a little extra insurance.
PRAXIS WORKS MTB 1X WIDE/ NARROW RING—104BCD
Tech info:
Praxis Works is known for its bottom bracket solutions and has developed a chainring for 1x drivetrains. The Praxis ring has a tooth design similar to that of the SRAM and Wolf Tooth rings and is made from 7075-T6 aluminum with a hard-anodized finish for increased tooth life. This ring retails for $50, and Praxis offers other mounting options at different prices.
On the trail:
The Praxis ring boasted impressive quality (especially considering the price range) that transferred over to the trail. The hard-anodized finish was appreciated, especially when cleaning the bike. Through rough terrain the Praxis ring held the chain well, although we did experience some slapping. Praxis recommends running a top guide for extra insurance, but we didn’t experience any dropped chains during our testing.
E*13 GUIDE RING—QUICK CONNECT
Tech info:
E*13 has been in the single-ring game for quite some time, with its previous generation Guide rings used on enduro and downhill bikes. The new versions use a narrow-wide tooth profile and a direct-mount option for TRS cranks. E*13 does offer this ring in a 104BCD option. Our ring retails for $55 and is also 9–11-speed compatible.
On the trail:
The Guide ring was one of the burliest and stiffest rings out of the bunch with an impressive tooth profile. The teeth have a taller shape for added mud clearance. Our drivetrains were quiet, and the ring delivered solid chain retention with a stiff and supported platform.
RENTHAL 1XR RETAINING RING—104 BCD
Tech info:
Renthal makes some pretty sweet bits for your bike and, honest- ly, we are fans of Renthal’s products. The 1XR was a new ring for 2015 and has been used by some of the fastest racers in the world. Renthal designed the 1XR with taller teeth and deep channels to allow for mud and other muck to be pushed away from the chain for better retention. In a 104-BCD pattern, this ring retails for $60 and works with 9–11-speed options.
On the trail:
The Renthal ring was another test-rider favorite out on the trail. The taller teeth gave us a unique expe- rience in contrast to some of the other rings we used. The teeth of the 1XR glide smoothly into the chain, which forces riders to focus heavily on proper chain length. We heard a little noise from the ring throughout testing but were pleased with the performance and the overall quality of the ring.
RACE FACE NARROW WIDE RING—104-BCD RING
Tech info:
Race Face offers one of the most recognizable aftermarket rings available and was one of the first to offer a range of anodized colors after XX1 made its debut. The Narrow Wide is available in a few different mounting options in six different colors (in the 104 options) and retails for $50. Race Face made the Narrow Wide out of 7075-T6 aluminum, and it is only compatible with 10- and 11-speed drivetrains.
On the trail:
Considering just how many bikes come stock with Race Face cranks and rings, we have spent quite a bit of time on this ring. In comparison with some of the other options tested, this ring isn’t quite as stiff as we would like but does a good job with chain retention. This ring was the thinnest out of the bunch and did wear out a little quicker than some of the others.
CANNONDALE SI SPIDERING— SI DIRECT MOUNT
Tech info:
Cannondale has a reputation for taking matters into their own hands and developing their own products. The SpideRing is their take on a narrow-wide with an incredibly sleek and lightweight design. This ring is currently only available as a direct mount to Cannondale Si cranks and has an offset suited for 11-speed drivetrains.
On the trail:
We have ridden a couple Cannondales using this ring and were impressed at how well it paired with the whole design of the bike. The ring itself is lightweight and stiff with a reinforced spider, along with having teeth that aren’t oversized like other brands. We didn’t experience any dropped chains during our testing and found that the drivetrains were quiet and smooth during testing.
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FAQs
What are the disadvantages of a narrow wide chainring? ›
However, there are some drawbacks to narrow wide chainrings.
The “locking” mechanism that prevents the chain from moving on the chainrings also tends to lock in the dirt, too. This doesn't just make your bike look a bit worse for wear, but will also rapidly decrease the mechanical efficiency of the chain itself.
Before narrow wide chainrings, it was always necessary to mount a chainguide to prevent the chain from dropping. Now when using a narrow wide chainring, you don't need to use a chainguide at all.
How do you install a narrow wide chainring? ›- Remove the drive side pedal. You'll need a pedal wrench, or a slim 15mm open-end wrench. ...
- Remove the drive side crank arm. ...
- Remove the stock chainrings. ...
- Attach new chainring to stock crank spider. ...
- Install the rest of the drivetrain. ...
- Bask in the glory.
Narrow-wide chainrings are specifically designed for single chainring drivetrains and cannot be used on double or triple derailleur cranks.
What size chainring is best for uphill? ›Mountain bike chainrings are available in smaller sizes all the way down to 26t, though I'd recommend most riders try a 30t or 28t first to experience how much easier it is to climb.
Why pros don t use oval chainrings? ›Riders with a smooth pedaling technique tend not to benefit from oval chainrings because they naturally don't have much of a dead spot in their pedal stroke. Riders who exert most of their power in bursts while pushing down on the pedals tend to benefit much more.
Are MTB chain guides worth it? ›Why You Should Run a Chain Guide. Mounting a chain guide on your mountain bike gives you an extra sense of security, hopefully ensuring that you won't ever drop your chain. When you are flying through rough sections of trail, the chain will jump up and down and can sometimes work its way off the chainring.
Do I need 3mm or 6mm offset chainring? ›Offset is determined by chainline, which is impacted by rear hub spacing. For Boost 148mm setups, use a 3mm offset X-SYNC 2 chainring. The 6mm offset chainring is used for non-Boost 142mm. However, some bike manufacturers are using unique offsets to adapt to their frame design.
Does a bigger chainring make it harder to pedal? ›Rings are supplied with different sizes with different amounts of teeth. The more teeth, the bigger the chainring. The number of teeth affects how much effort is needed to turn the pedals. The larger the chainring, the more rotations of the rear wheel you'll achieve by a single rotation on the front chainring.
Which is better 3X or 1X in MTB? ›For a beginner, there is no doubt that a 1X drivetrain is the easiest to use. If you want to go faster, you go up a gear, if you need to go slower, you go down. In comparison, using a 2X or 3X drivetrain takes a little more practice.
What is the most common chainring size? ›
Standard Setup
Currently, the most common gearing setup on new road bikes is a 50/34 chainset with an 11-28 cassette. This means that the big and small chainring have 50 and 34 teeth, respectively, and the cassette's smallest cog has 11 teeth and its largest cog has 28 teeth.
Will you go faster if you replace the stock chainring on your bike, like the 50t one shown here, with a larger chainring, like the 56t behind it? 99% of the time the answer is no, you will likely go slower. That example is for a 50 tooth front, 12 tooth rear sprocket.
How much gap between chainring and front derailleur? ›Before you get too worked up about cable tension it's vital to know that your front derailleur is positioned accurately. The gap between the lower edge of the front derailleur cage and the top of the outer chainring teeth should be 1-3mm for optimal performance.
How do I know if a chainring will fit my bike? ›A replacement chainring has to have the same BCD as the crankset, as well as the same positioning of the bolts, so the two join up. The BCD of any given crankset also sets the lower teeth limit for chainring compatibility. If you have a 130mm BCD crankset, for example, the smallest compatible chainring is a 38t.
What gear is best for uphill MTB? ›Low Gear = Easy = Good for Climbing: The “low” gear on your bike is the smallest chain ring in the front and the largest cog on your cassette (rear gears). In this position, the pedaling will be the easiest and you'll be able to pedal uphill with the smallest amount of resistance.
What gear ratio is best for climbing MTB? ›The best mountain bike gear ratio for climbing is 46 to 49 on a chainring and 16 to 18 on a cassette. For more diverse rides, mountain bike gears of ratios 46/17 to 42/17 are what work for flatter terrain or occasional hills. However, with that being said, the perfect ratio usually depends on the terrain you're riding.
What is a good gear ratio for climbing hills? ›Climbers gearing - 34/50 with 11/32 or 11/34 Cassette
It's what we recommend for beginners or existing road riders who want plenty of assistance on the climbs. With both a small and large chainring at the front, there's no need for a massive cassette at the rear.
As a direct consequence, Oval rings enhance a cyclist's ability to spin with a smoother power delivery and feel much easier on legs while climbing. Meaning you will go faster and get less tired. You will actually feel your pedal stroke to be more "round" with an Oval chainring than with a round chainring.
Are oval chainrings better for MTB? ›With oval chainrings rear tire traction improves greatly on loose and slippery terrain. Smoother power delivery to your rear wheel means that you will be able to maintain better, constant cadence; get less stress on the joints (knees) and therefore be able to keep certain level of effort for longer.
Are Q rings worth it? ›Q-Rings do not eliminate the dead spots, but they do lighten the load for the weaker areas and transfer that load to the stronger muscles.” “With Q-Rings the pedal stroke remains circular. It is only the rings that are elliptical. This is one reason why the system is an excellent one for trained athletes.
What is the lifespan of a mountain bike chain? ›
Most mechanics agree that you should replace your chain about every 2,000 to 3,000 miles, depending on your riding style.
What is the life span of MTB chain? ›A typical mountain bike chain will last 750 miles of single track riding. It's not easy to gauge exactly how long a chain will last, but there are ways to prolong the life of the chain.
Is it worth waxing a MTB chain? ›This keeps your chain and drivetrain running spotlessly clean for much longer than with any other type of lubricant. If you like a clean bike, then waxed chains will delight you. Partly because of this, waxed chains are also incredibly efficient in the real world, meaning fewer watts are lost to drivetrain friction.
How do I know what chainring I need? ›The two main determinants on which size of chainrings you can use is the spider type and Bolt Circle Diameter (BCD). Cranks have either four or five bolt chainring attachment know as the spider. You can't run 5-bolt chainrings on 4-bolt cranks and vice versa. Newer chainsets are 4 bolt while everything else is 5 bolt.
What is a common MTB chainring size? ›Standard Mountain bike front chainring size options are 32T, 34T, 36T, and 38T for both recreational and pro racers. Choose a 32T chainring for a 29er, a 36T chainring for a 26er, and a 34T for a 27.5” wheel bike. The mountain bike crankset consists of chainrings and crankarms.
What size oval chainring is best? ›46T Oval chainring is best suited for fast hill riding with majority of gravel roads and some tarmac roads. 48T Oval chainring is best suited for someone who rides majority of tarmac roads and occasional off-road flat terrain. 50T Oval chainring is best suited for road oriented riders with occasional flat fire.
What is the hardest gear to pedal? ›The high gear is the "hard" gear and is primarily used when descending and sprinting. The high gear is the largest chain ring in the front and the smallest cog on the rear cassette. This achieves the most difficult pedaling position and requires the most force to push the pedals.
What is the hardest gear on a bike? ›The highest gear is when it's hardest to pedal, this will move your bike at a fast speed if cruising along on the flat. The highest gear is when the chain is on the largest cog on the front and the smallest cog on the rear.
What gears make a bike go faster? ›The higher, harder gear (big chain ring, small cog) helps you increase your top speed, but requires more work and muscle to accelerate.
What are the advantages of narrow wide chainring? ›Narrow-Wide Chainring: The Benefits
The inner chain links are narrow, while the external links are wider. By placing the links into teeth suitable for their width, they become more secure in their places. This design improves chain retention without a derailleur or chain guide holding the links in place.
What size chainring is best for road? ›
For most people, a chainset with compact 50/34 chainrings provides a gear range that suits all their needs. Most new endurance and entry level road bikes are specced with 50/34 chainsets, racing bikes with 52/36, and time trial bikes with 53/39.
Which is better 32t or 34t chainring? ›However, if you're a beginner and prefer a lighter bike, then a 32-tooth chainring might be preferable. On the other hand, if you spend a lot of time riding steep terrains and are looking for a larger chainring with easier pedaling, then you might want to try a 34-tooth chainring.
Which is faster oval or round chainring? ›As a direct consequence, Oval rings enhance a cyclist's ability to spin with a smoother power delivery and feel much easier on legs while climbing. Meaning you will go faster and get less tired. You will actually feel your pedal stroke to be more "round" with an Oval chainring than with a round chainring.
How do I choose a mountain bike chainring? ›Broadly speaking, if you ride a 29er and/or ride in steep mountains go for a chainring with 32T or fewer (the 11 speed Sram XX system goes down to 28T if your bike has the XX drivetrain). If you ride 26″ or 27.5″ wheels and/or ride in less mountainous terrain then go for a 34T or possibly even 36T chainring.
How many chainrings should a mountain bike have? ›Cranksets generally come with either one, two or three chainrings. Two chainrings are most common on road bikes, while the latest mountain bikes tend to come with a single ring. Modern systems will give you plenty of range both for getting up hills and faster riding.
What is the easiest gear on a mountain bike? ›Low Gear. The low gear is the "easy" gear and is primarily used when climbing. The low gear is the smallest chain ring in the front, and the largest cog on the rear cassette. In this position pedaling will be easiest and the least amount of force will be required to push the pedals.
How do I know what size chainring to get? ›The two main determinants on which size of chainrings you can use is the spider type and Bolt Circle Diameter (BCD). Cranks have either four or five bolt chainring attachment know as the spider. You can't run 5-bolt chainrings on 4-bolt cranks and vice versa. Newer chainsets are 4 bolt while everything else is 5 bolt.
What is the benefit of a bigger chainring? ›2) A larger front chainring creates less frictional losses than a smaller chainring, given the same effective gear ratio, power output, and cadence, when tested with the chain in a pure coplanar manner (no chain misalignment introduced).
How many teeth should my chainring have? ›There's no universal correct number of teeth for the largest chainring. For MTB triples 42 teeth is common, while road triples usually have 50 to 53 teeth.
What is the best chainring for climbing? ›Climbers gearing - 34/50 with 11/32 or 11/34 Cassette
It's what we recommend for beginners or existing road riders who want plenty of assistance on the climbs. With both a small and large chainring at the front, there's no need for a massive cassette at the rear.